We never planned to travel further to the north than Opuwo, but a dutch couple in Etosha were so impressed with the Kunene valley that we decided to make a 2 day excursion to see what things are like on the Angolian border.
Driving the 182km from Opuwo to Epupa takes about 4 hours. The dirt
road leads past tiny Himba villages, goatherders herding flocks of goat
and beautiful baobab trees. We made a quick coffee stop under a huge
baobab, but bugs zooming around our heads and the heat cut our break
short.
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| Baobab tree |
When arriving up north one should watch out not to drive straight into the Kunenen river! Epupa is nothing more than a lovely waterfall, a tiny village and 2 or 3 campsites on the banks of the river. The road to Epupa Camp winds over the small hills where the village is situated.
In the late afternoon we walk up the hill to the Epupa waterfall. A really beautiful site. Green palm trees, seemingly dried out baobabs on the rocky banks and the earth colouring red as the sun begins to set behind the mountains. On the other side of the river Angola seems like a peaceful and quiet place.
The next morning we drive up the rocky road on a small mountain to the some what deserted Omutima viewpoint. We take more photo's of the valley and left without having met anybody to pay the N$20 to. Only much later on the same day, we are stalked by a small man carrying a receipt book, asking for payment. Not that hard to find the tourists whom you saw up on the mountain at a time when it was probably too hot to climb up there yourself!
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| Donkeys and solar panels to mainly provide for the tourists in the lodge or campsites. |
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| And right there, between somewhere and nowhere ....... |
On our second day at Epupa we visit a local Himba village with a Himba speaking guide who goes by the name of Docter Funroll!!. Docter also speaks english and told us that he grew up in one of the near by villages, but like many others, are now leading a more western style life working at the camp sites along the river.
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| The Himba village |
We get a quick course in saying 'hello', 'how are you' and 'thank you' in Himba. On arrival we have to wait in the truck while Docter informs the chief about the visitors and ask permission for us to enter. Unfortunately the men are all up in the mountains herding goat and we only get to meet a few women and children.
The Himba use red ochre stone mixed with goad fat to cover their skins. This protects them from the sun and insects. Strands of hair gets covered in ochre mud which they never wash out and only cover up new growth when necessary.
Afterwards we drive further up the valley along the 4x4 dirt road which leads to Ruacana.
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| Red ocher colours the mountain tops. |
The 6 campsites at Epupa Camp are all on the river bank and are really spacious. All staff are locals from the villages.
Each campsite has a 'private' toilet and shower built out of the hard dried stems of palm leaves. But then not all that private since one has to make your way through the flock of 11 wide horned bulls to get there. And while sitting on the toilet, one is accompanied by at least 3 monkeys happily staring from the low hanging branches!
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| Open air showers and whom you get to meet on you way there. |
We were looking forward to a nice meal at the lodge later in the evening, but were informed that the kitchen had run out of meat and will be closed! That's what happens when the nearest butcher or supermarket is about 4 hours away! So again our liver were saved by Ina!
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| Brewing coffee |
